DCI Leak Detection Specialist

Why Is My Toilet Constantly Running?

Discover why your toilet keeps running and exactly how to fix it. This comprehensive UK guide covers everything from worn flapper seals and faulty fill valves to dual flush button issues and silent leaks. Learn the real costs (up to £300/year on water bills), proven DIY fixes, when to call professionals, and how to prevent future problems. Written by Cornwall & Devon leak detection experts with 30 years experience stopping water waste.
Why Is My Toilet Constantly Running post

Why Is My Toilet Constantly Running? (The Real Costs & Simple Fixes)

Right, let's sort this irritating problem. That persistent sound of water trickling into your toilet bowl isn't just annoying—it's quietly draining your wallet and wasting precious water. After three decades investigating water leaks across Cornwall and Devon, I've seen homeowners lose hundreds of pounds annually to running toilets they thought were "just a bit noisy." Here's what you actually need to know, not the guesswork you'll find elsewhere.

A toilet constantly running water is typically caused by three main issues: a worn flapper seal allowing water to leak from the cistern into the bowl, a faulty fill valve that won't shut off properly, or an incorrectly adjusted float mechanism. In the UK, running toilets waste 200-400 litres daily—adding up to £300 yearly on metered bills. The good news? Most causes are fixable in under 30 minutes with basic tools, though silent leaks often go undetected for months, causing extensive damage.

toilet constantly running water showing internal cistern components

Understanding Your Toilet's Inner Workings

Before we fix anything, you need to understand what's actually happening inside that cistern. When you flush, the flapper (or flush valve seal in modern UK toilets) lifts, releasing water from the tank into the bowl. The float then drops, triggering the fill valve to refill the cistern. Simple enough—until one component fails and water keeps running continuously.

The BBC reported that 400 million litres of water leak from UK toilets every day. That's not a typo. Thames Water estimates that 1 in 20 households has a leaky loo, and most homeowners don't even realise it's happening.

What Causes a Toilet to Keep Running Water?

After inspecting thousands of running toilets across the Southwest, I can tell you the causes fall into clear patterns. Here's what's actually going wrong when your toilet constantly runs:

Worn Flapper or Flush Valve Seal

The rubber seal at the bottom of your cistern deteriorates over time, especially if you use in-cistern cleaning tablets. Once it warps or cracks, water constantly trickles from the tank into the bowl. This is the number one cause I encounter—accounting for roughly 60% of running toilets.

How to spot it: Place tissue paper against the back of the bowl. If it soaks through within minutes, you've got a seal problem.

Faulty Fill Valve

The fill valve (what older plumbers call the ballcock) controls water flow into your cistern. When it fails, water continuously runs even when the tank is full. You'll often hear a hissing sound coming from the cistern.

How to spot it: Lift the float arm. If the water stops flowing, your fill valve needs adjusting or replacing.

Incorrectly Adjusted Float

If the float sits too high, water overflows into the overflow pipe and down into the toilet bowl continuously. This is particularly common after DIY repairs when people don't reset the float to the correct level.

How to spot it: Water level should sit about 25mm below the overflow pipe opening. Higher than that, and you've found your problem.

Flush Chain Too Long or Tangled

On lever-flush toilets, if the chain connecting the flush handle to the flapper is too long, it can get caught under the flapper and prevent proper sealing. I see this weekly—usually after someone's "fixed" the toilet themselves.

How to spot it: Look inside the cistern after flushing. The chain should have just slight slack when the flapper is closed.

Damaged Overflow Pipe

Less common but worth checking—if your overflow pipe has cracked or come loose, water can constantly flow through it. This typically happens in older toilets where components have become brittle.

How to spot it: Check the overflow pipe height and condition. It should be 20-30cm above the bottom of the cistern.

Dual Flush Button Mechanism Fault

Modern push-button toilets use a drop valve system rather than traditional flappers. When the seal at the bottom wears out or the button mechanism sticks, water continually leaks. These are trickier to diagnose than traditional systems.

How to spot it: If your toilet runs intermittently or constantly after switching to dual flush, the valve seal is likely worn.

Different Types of Running Toilets (And What They Mean)

Not all running toilets are created equal. Understanding the pattern helps identify the cause faster:

Continuous Running

Water constantly flows without stopping. This typically indicates a flapper seal that won't close properly or a fill valve that won't shut off. You'll hear continuous water flow, though sometimes it's so quiet you only notice when the house is silent at night.

Cost Warning: A toilet running water constantly can waste 200-400 litres per day. On a water meter, this adds approximately £300 annually to your bill. The worst cases I've encountered wasted 8,000 litres daily—costing homeowners over £6,000 yearly before they caught it.

Intermittent or Phantom Flush

Your toilet randomly runs for a few seconds every 10-15 minutes, like someone's just flushed it. This "phantom flush" or "ghost flushing" indicates a slow leak from the cistern into the bowl. The water level drops gradually until the fill valve kicks in to refill it.

This is particularly insidious because many people assume it's normal. It's not. Even a toilet running every 5 minutes is wasting significant water and indicates a failing seal.

Running After Flush Only

The toilet continually runs for several minutes after flushing, then stops. This usually means the fill valve is working but taking too long to shut off, or the float needs adjustment. Sometimes it's debris stuck in the fill valve mechanism.

UK Toilet Types and Their Specific Issues

dual flush push button toilet cistern showing fill valve and flush mechanism

Understanding UK Toilet Systems

UK toilets have evolved significantly over the past 20 years. Understanding your specific system is crucial for proper diagnosis and repair.

Dual Flush Toilets (Push Button)

These became standard in UK homes from the early 2000s onwards. Instead of traditional siphon systems, they use drop valve flush mechanisms with two buttons—typically a full flush (6 litres) and half flush (3 litres).

Common problems with dual flush systems:

  • Flush valve seal deterioration causing constant trickling
  • Button mechanism sticking in the pressed position
  • Air pressure issues in pneumatic button systems
  • Calcium buildup preventing proper seal closure (particularly common in Devon and Cornwall's hard water areas)
  • Incorrect water level causing continuous overflow

If your dual flush toilet is constantly filling or won't stop running after pushing the button, the flush valve seal is almost certainly worn. These seals cost £5-15 from plumbers' merchants and most keen DIYers can replace them in under 20 minutes. For complex issues with water leaks in your home, sometimes professional diagnosis saves both time and money.

Siphon vs Drop Valve Systems

Older UK toilets (pre-2000s) typically used siphon flush systems—robust, reliable, but water-inefficient. When these run continuously, it's usually because the siphon diaphragm has perished. Replacement requires removing the entire cistern from the pan—not a quick job.

Modern drop valve systems are easier to maintain but more prone to seal failure. The good news? Repairs are simpler and parts more readily available.

Concealed Cisterns (Wall-Mounted)

Contemporary bathrooms often feature concealed cisterns hidden behind wall panels or furniture units. When these run continuously, diagnosis becomes trickier because you can't easily see what's happening.

Access typically requires:

  • Removing the flush plate (usually secured with clips)
  • Unfastening the flush rods from the central frame
  • Removing plastic access panels if fitted
  • Sometimes removing entire furniture units

The internal mechanisms are identical to standard close-coupled toilets, but repairs take longer due to access issues. If you're not confident, call a professional—I've seen too many damaged wall panels from DIY attempts gone wrong.

Close-Coupled Toilets

The most common UK toilet type—cistern sits directly on the back of the pan with a large gasket between them. These are the easiest to diagnose and repair because you simply lift off the lid to access everything.

When water constantly runs in these toilets, check the flapper seal first, then the fill valve, then the float adjustment. That order solves 95% of issues.

The Real Cost of Ignoring a Running Toilet

Let me be blunt about what this actually costs, because most articles gloss over the financial damage:

Leak SeverityLitres Wasted DailyMonthly Cost (Metered)Annual CostWater Wasted Yearly
Minor Leak
(Slow drip)
50-100 litres£4-8£48-9618,250-36,500 litres
Moderate Leak
(Constant trickle)
200-400 litres£16-32£192-38473,000-146,000 litres
Severe Leak
(Visible flow)
1,000-2,000 litres£80-160£960-1,920365,000-730,000 litres
Critical Leak
(Continuous flow)
4,000-8,000 litres£320-640£3,840-7,6801,460,000-2,920,000 litres

These figures are based on current UK water rates averaging £2 per cubic metre (combined water and sewerage). If you're not on a water meter, you won't see direct cost increases, but you're still wasting this much water—and contributing to the UK's water stress problems.

Insurance Warning: Some home insurance policies require you to fix leaks within a reasonable timeframe. If a running toilet causes secondary damage (like ceiling damage to the room below from water leaking from above) and you've known about the leak for months, insurers may refuse the claim.

The Environmental Impact You're Not Considering

Beyond your wallet, there's the environmental angle that most people ignore. The South East of England is classified as "seriously water-stressed" by the Environment Agency. Cornwall and Devon, while wetter, still face summer shortages and hosepipe bans.

According to the Environment Agency, England could face significant water deficits by 2050 unless we reduce per capita consumption from 140 litres to 100 litres daily. A single running toilet can waste double the average person's daily consumption.

Think about it this way: every litre your toilet wastes is a litre that needs processing at treatment plants (energy-intensive) and pumping to your home (more energy). It's not just about water—it's about the carbon footprint of treating and moving that water.

How to Detect Silent Toilet Leaks (The Tissue Test)

Many running toilets are virtually silent. You won't hear any water flow, see any ripples in the bowl, or notice anything obviously wrong. Yet they're still wasting hundreds of litres daily.

The Professional Tissue Test Method:
  1. Wait 30 minutes after the last flush to ensure the cistern is full
  2. Wipe the back of the toilet bowl completely dry with toilet tissue
  3. Place a fresh, dry piece of tissue horizontally across the back of the pan
  4. Leave for 2-3 hours without using the toilet (overnight is ideal)
  5. Check the tissue—if it's wet or torn, you have a leaky loo

This simple test reveals silent leaks that water company engineers use to identify problems. If you've received a South West Water leak notification, this is likely how they identified the issue from your meter readings alone.

Alternative method: Add food colouring to your cistern. Wait 30 minutes without flushing. If colour appears in the bowl, you've got a leak even if you can't hear or see it.

DIY Fixes for Toilet Constantly Running

Right, let's get practical. Here's how to fix the most common causes yourself:

Fix #1: Adjust the Float (5 Minutes)

Tools Needed:

  • None—just your hands

Steps:

  1. Remove the cistern lid carefully (dual flush buttons usually unscrew anticlockwise)
  2. Check the water level—it should be 25mm below the overflow pipe
  3. If too high, adjust the float:
    • Modern fill valves: Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to lower
    • Older ballcock systems: Gently bend the brass rod downward
    • Clip-type floats: Squeeze the clip and slide the float down the rod
  4. Flush and watch the refill—water should stop before reaching overflow
  5. Adjust again if needed until level is correct

This solves about 20% of running toilet issues and costs absolutely nothing.

Fix #2: Replace the Flapper Seal (20 Minutes)

Tools Needed:

  • Replacement flapper seal (£3-10 from DIY stores)
  • Old towel

Steps:

  1. Turn off the water supply using the isolation valve (usually beneath the cistern)
  2. Flush the toilet to empty the cistern
  3. Remove the old flapper—most clip onto ears on the overflow pipe or slide off the valve stem
  4. Clean the valve seat thoroughly—limescale and debris prevent proper sealing
  5. Install the new flapper, ensuring it sits flat against the valve seat
  6. Adjust the chain length if present—should have just slight slack when closed
  7. Turn water back on and test flush several times

For dual flush toilets, you're replacing the flush valve seal rather than a flapper. The principle is identical, though you might need to twist the entire valve unit anticlockwise to remove it. If you're unsure how to find water leaks beyond the obvious toilet issues, sometimes the problem runs deeper.

Fix #3: Clean or Replace the Fill Valve (30 Minutes)

Tools Needed:

  • Cup or small container
  • Flathead screwdriver (sometimes)
  • Replacement fill valve if cleaning doesn't work (£10-25)

Steps to Clean:

  1. Turn off water supply and flush toilet
  2. Hold the float cup up and grip the grey shaft
  3. With your free hand, turn the cap anticlockwise about 1/8 turn and lift off
  4. Hold a cup upside down over the exposed valve opening
  5. Turn water on full force for 10-15 seconds (cup catches spray)
  6. Turn water off, check inside valve for debris, repeat if needed
  7. Replace cap by reversing the process
  8. Turn water on and test

If Cleaning Doesn't Work (Replace Fill Valve):

  1. Turn off water and flush toilet to empty cistern
  2. Disconnect supply line beneath the cistern (have a towel ready for drips)
  3. Unscrew the locking nut under the cistern holding the fill valve
  4. Remove old fill valve completely
  5. Install new valve according to manufacturer instructions
  6. Reconnect supply line and turn water on slowly
  7. Adjust float to correct water level
  8. Check for leaks around connections

Fix #4: Shorten or Replace Flush Chain (5 Minutes)

If your chain is too long and getting caught under the flapper:

  • Disconnect chain from flush lever
  • Shorten by hooking it higher up on the lever arm
  • Leave just 12-25mm of slack when flapper is closed
  • Trim excess chain with wire cutters to prevent future tangling
  • Test flush to ensure flapper opens fully and closes properly

Specific Fixes for Dual Flush Push Button Toilets

Push button toilets require slightly different approaches:

Accessing the Cistern

  1. Press down on the outer edges of the button assembly
  2. Turn anticlockwise until it unscrews (usually 1-2 full turns)
  3. Lift out the button unit carefully
  4. Remove cistern lid

Some models have a small screw beneath the buttons—gently prise out the buttons with a screwdriver, then undo the screw.

Replacing Dual Flush Valve Seal

  1. Turn off water and flush to empty cistern
  2. Twist the central flush valve clockwise to remove (it lifts out)
  3. Check the holder beneath for limescale buildup—clean thoroughly
  4. Inspect the rubber washer on the valve bottom
  5. If worn, cracked, or hardened, replace it (bring old one to match)
  6. Clean any debris from the seating area
  7. Reinstall valve by twisting anticlockwise to lock
  8. Replace button assembly
  9. Turn water on and test both flush buttons
Hard Water Warning: Cornwall and Devon have moderately hard to very hard water. Limescale buildup is common and prevents proper sealing. If your toilet keeps running despite replacing seals, descale the valve seat and overflow pipe thoroughly. White vinegar works well—let it soak for an hour before scrubbing.

When to Call a Professional (Don't Waste Time on These)

After three decades in the trade, I can tell you when DIY stops being cost-effective:

Call a Professional Immediately If:
  • Water is leaking around the base of the toilet onto the floor (pan-to-floor seal failure)
  • You've replaced the flapper and fill valve but toilet still runs constantly
  • The cistern is cracked or showing obvious structural damage
  • Water supply won't shut off at the isolation valve
  • You have a concealed cistern and can't access the mechanism
  • Your toilet is running AND your boiler pressure keeps dropping (suggests larger plumbing issue)
  • Multiple toilets in your home are running (possible supply line issue)
  • You're uncomfortable working with water fixtures

Here's something most articles won't tell you: if you've spent more than an hour faffing about with a toilet and it still runs, call someone. Your time has value, and sometimes the issue needs professional diagnosis because there's an underlying problem you can't see.

For instance, I recently investigated a toilet that kept running despite three flapper replacements. Turned out the flush valve seat was severely corroded—something the homeowner couldn't spot because it was beneath the flapper. Entire valve needed replacing, which meant temporarily removing the toilet from the floor. That's not a DIY job for most people.

Preventing Future Running Toilet Problems

Right, you've fixed it. Now keep it fixed:

Annual Maintenance Checklist:

  • Perform the tissue test every 6 months to catch silent leaks early
  • Visually inspect flapper or flush valve seal for wear (replace every 3-5 years)
  • Check fill valve for smooth operation (lift float arm—should move freely)
  • Clean limescale buildup from valve seats and overflow pipes
  • Verify water level is correct (25mm below overflow)
  • Test flush chain or button mechanism for smooth operation
  • Inspect tank bolts and washers for corrosion or leaks
  • Check isolation valve turns smoothly (prevents emergencies)

What NOT to Do

  • Don't use in-cistern cleaning tablets—they corrode rubber seals faster than anything else
  • Don't ignore intermittent running—phantom flushes indicate slow leaks that worsen
  • Don't overtighten connections—you'll crack ceramic or strip plastic threads
  • Don't use WD-40 on fill valves—petroleum-based lubricants damage rubber components
  • Don't leave the lid off long-term—dust and debris get into mechanisms
  • Don't assume it's "just how toilets work"—properly maintained toilets don't run constantly

Understanding Water Meter Impact and Company Notifications

If you're on a water meter, running toilets show up quickly on consumption reports. South West Water (which serves most of Cornwall and Devon) now sends leak notifications when they detect unusual consumption patterns.

How Water Companies Detect Your Toilet Leak

Modern smart meters track water usage patterns. When they detect continuous flow (even small amounts) over extended periods, it flags as a potential leak. The water company's algorithm can distinguish between normal daily use and constant background flow from a running toilet.

You'll typically receive a letter or text alert saying something like: "Our records indicate you may have a leak at your property." Don't ignore these. Their data is usually accurate, and catching leaks early prevents massive bills.

What Happens if You Ignore It

Water companies generally give you reasonable time to fix leaks. However, if you ignore notifications and consumption remains high for months, you'll pay for every litre wasted. Unlike some utilities, water companies won't retrospectively reduce bills for leaks you should've noticed but didn't fix.

Some companies offer a one-time leak allowance if you can prove you fixed it promptly upon discovery. Keep receipts for any parts you purchase and photograph the repair for documentation.

Dickie's Practical Advice: Check your water meter reading weekly for a month. Write down the numbers at the same time each day. If consumption is consistent but high (more than expected), you've got a leak somewhere—quite possibly your toilet. This proactive approach catches problems before water companies send notifications.

Other Reasons Your Toilet Might Be Running

Occasionally, the cause isn't your toilet mechanism at all:

High Water Pressure

Excessively high mains pressure (above 5 bar) can cause fill valves to leak and seals to fail prematurely. If your toilet continually refills and you live in a low-lying area with known high pressure, install a pressure-reducing valve on your main supply. This protects not just your toilet but all your plumbing fixtures.

Frozen or Blocked Overflow Pipe

External overflow pipes can freeze in winter or become blocked by debris. When this happens, water backs up and appears to make your toilet run continuously. Check the external discharge point—it should be clear and show no signs of blockage. For comprehensive information about what to do if you think you have a water leak, understanding all potential causes helps.

Shared Plumbing Issues (Flats and Apartments)

In multi-occupancy buildings, sometimes your toilet runs because of issues in the building's plumbing system rather than your specific toilet. Pressure fluctuations from other units can affect your fill valve operation. If you've done everything right and the problem persists, speak with building management about system-wide pressure checks.

When You Need Professional Leak Detection

Sometimes what seems like a simple running toilet actually indicates a bigger problem lurking beneath:

Not Sure If It's Just Your Toilet?

If you've fixed your toilet but your water meter keeps spinning, or you've got damp patches appearing around the bathroom floor, you might have a hidden leak elsewhere. Our non-destructive water leak detection services use thermal imaging and acoustic technology to pinpoint leaks without ripping up your bathroom.

Get Expert Leak Detection

Call Dickie on 07822 024 661 for immediate advice

I've investigated dozens of cases where homeowners spent weeks trying to fix a toilet, only to discover the real leak was in the supply pipe beneath the bathroom floor or in the waste pipe behind the wall. Thermal imaging cameras can spot these issues in minutes.

Signs you need professional leak detection rather than just toilet repair:

  • Water meter spinning even with everything turned off including the toilet
  • Damp patches on walls or ceiling near the toilet
  • Musty smell in the bathroom that persists after fixing the toilet
  • Floor feels soft or spongy around the toilet base
  • Multiple fixtures in the bathroom having issues simultaneously
  • Your toilet and your central heating system both losing pressure

Will Home Insurance Cover Running Toilet Damage?

Here's the insurance reality most people don't understand:

What's typically covered:

  • Sudden and unexpected escape of water (burst pipe, sudden seal failure)
  • Damage to property caused by the leak (ceiling damage below bathroom)
  • Trace and access costs to find hidden leaks

What's NOT covered:

  • Gradual deterioration and wear (slow-developing flapper wear)
  • Lack of maintenance (ignoring obvious running water for months)
  • The faulty component itself (you pay for the new flapper)
  • Water bills from wasted water

If your running toilet causes damage to rooms below (common in flats), insurers will investigate how long the problem existed. If they determine you should've noticed and fixed it earlier, they may deny the claim. This is why regular checks matter—both for your wallet and insurance coverage.

Common Questions About Running Toilets (The Answers That Actually Help)

Can I use WD-40 on a toilet fill valve?

No. Absolutely not. WD-40 is petroleum-based and will deteriorate rubber seals and plastic components. If your fill valve is sticking, clean it with water or replace it. Using WD-40 might temporarily solve the problem but causes bigger failures within weeks.

Is it worth trying to fix a running toilet or should I replace the whole thing?

Unless your toilet is cracked or severely corroded, it's almost always worth fixing. A complete internal replacement kit costs £30-50 and gives you essentially a new toilet mechanically. Replacing the entire toilet costs £100-300 plus installation. Fix it first unless there are other reasons to upgrade.

How do I know if my toilet flapper needs replacing?

Remove it and check for:

  • Cracks or tears in the rubber
  • Hardening or loss of flexibility (it should bend easily)
  • Black residue when you touch it (indicates deterioration)
  • Warping or deformation that prevents flat sealing
  • Age over 5 years (replace as preventive maintenance)

Should I call a plumber for a running toilet?

Try the simple fixes first (adjust float, clean fill valve). If those don't work within an hour or you're uncomfortable working with plumbing, yes, call a professional. Plumbers typically charge £40-80 for this repair plus parts. That's money well spent compared to months of wasted water or botched DIY that makes things worse. When wondering who to call for leak under floor or ceiling issues related to your toilet, the same principle applies.

How to adjust ballcock in toilet cistern in the UK?

For older brass ballcock systems:

  1. Gently bend the brass rod downward to lower the float
  2. Bend upward to raise the float
  3. Make small adjustments—brass can fatigue and break
  4. Target water level: 25mm below overflow pipe

For modern fill valves:

  1. Look for an adjustment screw on top of the valve
  2. Turn clockwise to lower water level
  3. Turn anticlockwise to raise water level
  4. Some have a clip that slides up/down the rod instead

What happens if a toilet runs all night?

Assuming a moderate leak (200 litres/day), one night wastes approximately 67 litres. On a meter, that's about 13-17p per night. Doesn't sound like much, but over a year that's £47-62 for absolutely nothing. More importantly, continuous running accelerates wear on all toilet components, leading to bigger failures. And you're contributing to unnecessary water treatment and environmental impact.

Is it bad to leave a toilet that is constantly running?

Yes, for multiple reasons:

  • Financial cost accumulates daily
  • Environmental waste in water-stressed areas
  • Increased wear on toilet components
  • Potential insurance complications if damage occurs
  • Possible violation of water use regulations in drought areas
  • Your contribution to the 400 million litres wasted daily from UK toilets

How much water can a running toilet use in 30 days?

Depends on severity:

  • Minor leak: 1,500-3,000 litres/month
  • Moderate leak: 6,000-12,000 litres/month
  • Severe leak: 30,000-60,000 litres/month
  • Critical leak: 120,000-240,000 litres/month

For perspective, the average UK household uses about 142,000 litres annually. A severe running toilet can waste that much in just 2-5 months.

Can a constantly running toilet increase the water bill?

If you're on a water meter, absolutely. Even a minor leak adds £50-100 annually. Moderate leaks add £200-400. Severe cases can double or triple your water bill. If you're on a fixed rate (unmetered), you won't see direct cost increases, but you're still using the water and contributing to overall water stress in your area.

Is my toilet running costing me money?

Only if you're on a water meter. Check your billing type:

  • Metered: Yes, every litre costs money
  • Unmetered (rateable value): No direct bill increase, but you're wasting water and energy

Even on unmetered billing, consider switching to a meter if you have a leak—the savings from fixing it might make metering worthwhile. Most water companies offer free meter installation and a trial period.

Final Thoughts: Don't Flush Money Down the Loo

After 30 years investigating water issues across Cornwall and Devon, I can tell you this: most running toilets are simple fixes that homeowners overcomplicate. The flapper seal or flush valve costs less than a takeaway curry, takes 20 minutes to replace, and saves hundreds annually.

But here's what matters more than the money—we're in a genuinely water-stressed country. The Environment Agency isn't exaggerating when they warn about 2050 deficits. Every litre your toilet wastes is a litre that needs treating, pumping, heating (for hot water systems), and disposing of. It's not just your bill—it's everyone's future water security.

The tissue test takes 5 minutes to set up and could reveal a silent leak wasting 200 litres daily. Do it tonight. If you find a leak, fix it this weekend. If the fix doesn't work, call someone who knows what they're doing rather than guessing for weeks. Sometimes issues like mysterious wet floors in your house connect to toilet problems you hadn't considered.

Your toilet shouldn't run constantly, intermittently, or randomly. If it does, something's broken. Fix it, save money, save water, and stop contributing to the 400 million litres wasted daily from UK toilets. That's not just good sense—it's basic responsibility.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my toilet is running if I can't hear it?
Use the tissue test: wait 30 minutes after the last flush, wipe the back of the toilet bowl dry, then place a fresh piece of toilet tissue across the back of the pan. Leave it for 2-3 hours (overnight is best) without using the toilet. If the tissue is wet or torn when you check it, you have a silent leak. Alternatively, add food colouring to your cistern and wait 30 minutes—if colour appears in the bowl without flushing, you’ve got a leak.
Yes, a running toilet can cause serious damage beyond water waste. Constant moisture can lead to floor damage around the toilet base, ceiling damage in rooms below (particularly in flats), mould growth, and deterioration of toilet components. In severe cases, prolonged leaks can rot floor joists and subfloors, leading to £1,000s in structural repairs. Additionally, the continuous water flow can corrode internal toilet parts, eventually causing complete system failure.

Dual flush toilets commonly run due to a worn flush valve seal at the base of the central valve unit. Unlike traditional flappers, these seals deteriorate faster, especially in hard water areas. Limescale buildup around the seal or calcium deposits preventing proper closure are major culprits. The button mechanism can also stick in the pressed position due to air pressure issues in pneumatic systems. You’ll need to remove the button (unscrew anticlockwise), take out the flush valve unit, and either clean or replace the rubber washer at the bottom.

While not immediately dangerous, leaving a toilet running is costly and potentially damaging. A moderate leak wastes 67 litres overnight (about 13-17p on a meter), but more importantly, continuous running accelerates wear on all components, increasing the likelihood of sudden failure. If you’re going away and notice your toilet running, turn off the isolation valve to prevent potential flooding from component failure. Some home insurance policies may deny claims for damage from leaks you knew about but didn’t fix promptly.
On a water meter, costs vary by severity: minor leaks add £48-96 annually, moderate leaks (constant trickle) add £192-384 yearly, severe leaks add £960-1,920 per year, and critical continuous flow leaks can add £3,840-7,680 annually. Thames Water states a typical running toilet adds approximately £300 per year to metered bills. If you’re on unmetered billing (rateable value), you won’t see direct cost increases, but you’re still wasting the water.
No, never use WD-40 or petroleum-based lubricants on toilet components. These products deteriorate rubber seals and plastic parts within weeks, causing bigger failures than your original problem. If your fill valve is sticking, clean it thoroughly with water or replace it entirely (£10-25). For temporary relief, a small amount of washing-up liquid in the cistern can help lubricate rubber components, but replacement is the proper solution.
Phantom flushing or intermittent running indicates a slow leak from the cistern into the bowl. Water gradually seeps past a worn flapper or flush valve seal, causing the water level to drop slowly. When it drops enough, the fill valve activates to refill the tank, creating the phantom flush sound. This typically happens every 10-30 minutes depending on leak severity. It’s often so quiet you only notice at night. Replace the flapper or flush valve seal to stop it.
Insurance typically covers sudden and unexpected water escape, but NOT gradual deterioration or lack of maintenance. If your running toilet causes ceiling damage in the room below and you’ve known about the leak for months, insurers will likely deny the claim. However, if a toilet component suddenly fails causing immediate damage, that’s usually covered. Trace and access costs to find hidden leaks are often covered (£5,000-10,000 limit), but the faulty toilet part itself is your responsibility. Always document when you discover issues and fix them promptly.
Constant running means water continuously flows without stopping—usually indicating a fill valve that won’t shut off or water overflowing into the overflow pipe. This wastes more water immediately. Intermittent running (phantom flushing) suggests a slow leak through the flapper/flush valve seal, where water seeps gradually until the fill valve kicks in to refill. While intermittent running wastes less water per hour, it indicates seal deterioration that will worsen. Both need fixing, but constant running should be addressed first due to higher immediate water waste.
Call a professional immediately if: water is leaking around the toilet base onto the floor (suggests pan-to-floor seal failure), you’ve replaced the flapper and fill valve but the toilet still runs, the cistern shows cracks or structural damage, you can’t access a concealed cistern mechanism, water won’t shut off at the isolation valve, or you’re uncomfortable working with plumbing. Also call if you’ve spent more than an hour troubleshooting without success—your time has value, and underlying issues often need professional diagnosis to spot corroded valve seats or other hidden problems.
DCI Leak Detection Specialist